rl reeves jr visits Commander’s Palace for his 500 po boys series

The most famous and influential chef in the history of the American South served a lengthy stint at Commander’s Palace back in the 70s. Paul Prudhomme, a native son of St. Landry Parish, Louisiana, was hired to run the kitchen in 1975 and before long the old-line Creole restaurant had turned into something of a Cajun hotplate joint.

Albeit with prices that appealed to only the most well-heeled of clientele.

On a recent visit we ate from the table of Executive Chef Meg Bickford, the first female in the history of the company to run the kitchen. Bickford is attempting to put her own indelible stamp on the restaurant. To wit: po boys are now served at Commanders Palace.

In business since 1893 in one form or another, Commander’s will sell you a two course lunch special for around $20 and throw in some .25c martinis as a sort of boozy lagniappe.

I’ve been eating po boys in New Orleans since the 70s, and the old rule where the more dilapidated the diner is, the better the po boy is, is still doctrine in this old town.

But could Commander’s put a respectable fried shrimp po boy on my plate? In short, yes.

Billed as Chef Meg’s Parade Route Favorite this sandwich is long and fat, and stuffed with about two dozen fried shrimps that have been thoroughly drenched in a tacky hot sauce with the sharp vinegar notes leavened with a bit of sugar.

Pickled onions and a novel okra mayo polish off Chef Bickford’s creation. Crunchy, well-fried potato chips complete the plate. Unlike other po boy stands about town we have three liveried servers attend to our needs and they are more than generous with the gin martinis.

Truth be told our visit came at lunch and the servers were a tad bit green but made up for their inexperience by being nearly-unbearably hospitable.

I don’t visit the halls of fine dining in New Orleans too often. I’m much more in my element when I’m surrounded by the roustabouts, tradesmen, and longshoremen that crowd into the blue collar cafes of the 9th Ward.

But Commander’s Palace, in spite of its gloss, sheen and respectability, puts out a fried shrimp po boy that would not be out of place in my neighborhood down the river.

I reckon Chef Meg Bickford is doing Paul Prudhomme proud.

Commander’s Palace
1403 Washington Ave
New Orleans, Louisiana
70130

504-899-8221

Hours of operation
Always call ahead

[This is an archival post]