RL Reeves Jr Recipe: Spaghetti With Sweet Onion Brisket Ragu [photo courtesy Ryan Adams]

When in the presence of a superior cook, I like to focus, laser-like, on the subject at hand, take notes and give proper deference to the higher authority.

Such was the case on many trips to Agata’s kitchen in Alabaster, Alabama.

There is an enormous Italian diaspora in central Alabama.

For decades, immigrants from the Boot have traveled to Dixie to settle into the fertile blacklands, and begin their new lives among the country folk of Chilton, Shelby and Jefferson counties.

It’s a little known fact that the Birmingham area hosts some of the finest Italian restaurants in the whole United States.

Places where they still bring a hot loaf of bread to table the moment you’re seated, Chianti bottles line the walls, and the tablecloths?

Red checkered without an ounce of irony.

Agata was a friend of mine’s grandmother, and we spent many a Sunday afternoon at her kitchen table drinking strong coffee and watching as the maestra bustled about in the tiny, farmhouse kitchen.

I took a lot of notes as the heady aroma of frying onions and garlic rose off the old iron pans on the gas cook stove.

One of the best food parties I ever threw was titled “Celebrate the classic cuisine of Italy” it’s still spoken of in reverential terms by a certain group of Austinites.

RL Reeves Jr Recipe: Spaghetti With Sweet Onion Brisket Ragu

I found a flat that I’d trimmed off a brisket tucked away in my freezer the other night and inspiration struck like lightning.

Time to make a ragu and pay homage to Agata, one of the finest cooks to ever take the long voyage from Sicily to Alabama.

Ingredients

  • 1 lb Beef, brisket, smoked, finely chopped
  • 1 lb Onion, sweet, chopped
  • 1 bulb, garlic, chopped
  • 1 T. red chile flakes
  • 1 each 26 oz can, whole, peeled tomatoes
  • salt
  • pepper

    Method

    Heat cast iron pot with good oil {If you don’t have cast iron use a heavy kettle}

    Add onions, cook 1 hour {minimum}

    Add garlic, cook 30 minutes {minimum}

    Add beef

    Add red chile flakes

    Add tomatoes constantly stirring and breaking them up

    Simmer a minimum of 1 hour

    Adjust flavors with salt and pepper

    Voila!

    Now cook a 12 oz packet of pasta noodles and your meal will be ready

    Cooking notes:

    Since I’m a huge advocate of slow cooking, I like for the above process to take several hours.

    If you want to experience the full magnitude of flavors that this recipe can create, then please be patient.

    Plus the aroma that will fill your house will drive you absolutely wild.

    I’ve modified this recipe many times over the years.

    Sometimes I’ll substitute a pound of mushrooms for the beef.

    Sometimes, I like to throw a handful of good quality green olives in the ragu in the last few minutes of cooking.

    My favorite pasta is cappellini but I had spaghetti on hand so that was what I used.

    Also, don’t be shy when it comes time to grate a ton of parmigiana over your plate.

    And of course this would not be a meal without a giant hunk of crusty bread broiled with good butter.