One fatal flaw kept Jason Seither’s seafood joint out in Harahan from entering the rarefied arena occupied by po boy hard-hitters like Heard Dat Kitchen and Rampart Food Store.

You can’t hang with the New Orleans heavyweights if you don’t take the time to press the bread on a hot plancha for a few seconds. The Dong Phuong loaf was fresh but cold as a parson’s cupboard at Epiphany.