Writer documenting life in New Orleans 9th Ward. I'm eating 500 po boys at 500 different restaurants, gas stations, corner stores and cafes in New Orleans

Month: May 2026

Field Report: 2026 Downtown Super Sunday Mardi Gras Indian Party

2026 Downtown Super Sunday Mardi Gras Indian Party

We ventured up to Bayou St. John earlier this spring to shoot the Mardi Gras Indians for their Downtown Super Sunday rolling street party. This is what we saw:

2026 New Orleans International Vodou Day with Queen Nqwamary Janiqwa Nganga

We get exactly one healthy dose of voodoo every year in New Orleans at 5am on Mardi Gras day when Voodoo Queen Kalindah Laveaux comes out of her Treme bungalow and leads a procession of priestesses through the streets of the 6th Ward.

It’s eerie, macabre and joyful.

This weekend, at events scattered across New Orleans, International Vodou Day will be celebrated in this northernmost outpost of the Caribbean. We are most excited to see Queen Nqwamary Janiqwa Nganga pour libations at the slave marker near the US Mint in the French Quarter.

During the dark days of US slavery, within a one-block radius of this marker, you would find roughly a dozen slave-trading firms operated out of bank-like offices, luxury showrooms, and private pens. Their business? Selling their fellow man into slavery.

Expect Queen Nqwamary Janiqwa Nganga to offer serious wisdom on these matters.

schedule of events

Field Report: 2026 Original Big 7 Social and Pleasure Second Line In New Orleans

2026 Original Big 7 Social and Pleasure Second Line In New Orleans

500 Po Boys: Galley Seafood Soft Shell Crab at New Orleans Jazz Fest

Galley Seafood Soft Shell Crab at New Orleans Jazz Fest

50 years ago Dennis and Vicky Patania began serving soft-shell crab po-boys at Jazz Fest in New Orleans.

They were two kids with a dream

In 1977 a ticket would run you a meager two bucks. Adjusted for inflation that same ticket should cost you about $11 today.

We all know that ain’t happening.

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