Writer documenting life in New Orleans 9th Ward. I'm eating 500 po boys at 500 different restaurants, gas stations, corner stores and cafes in New Orleans

Category: Recipes Page 3 of 4

Nellie Sullivan Recipe: Sweet Batter Pudding With Fresh Blackberries

When July rolls around in the Cumberland Highlands of Eastern Kentucky it’s time to hit the strip mines with a big plastic jug, and go blackberry picking.

RL Reeves Jr Mexican Green Spaghetti Method

RL Reeves Jr Mexican Green Spaghetti Method

In the late 19th century, Texas hot guts sausage took the Lone Star state by storm. Ground up bull meat seasoned with hot red pepper, garlic and salt – then submitted to mesquite or post oak smoke suddenly became de rigueur on meat shop menus.

A hundred years later, brisket, a long-running warhorse in the Texas barbecue game, took on added verve when Bobby Mueller and his son John strapped a rocket to a steer’s ass and redefined what we thought of the old menu staple.

Yeah, we’d all been eating brisket since the FDR era but we’d never had it like this. Bobby and John are both deceased but before their passing Bobby told me that the barbecue he was serving would’ve been declared ‘over-cooked’ when he was on the come up.

Slow Difficult Recipes: Agata’s Lasagna

Back when I lived in Alabama I became friends with a girl whose grandmother, Agata, was from Sicily. We’d ride out to the sleepy little town of Alabaster on Sunday afternoons where the granny would be busying herself in the kitchen-dealing out culinary trump cards of obscene deliciousness.

My all time favorite dish she made was an intensely garlicky red-sauced lasagna that boasts three pounds of cheeses.This recipe needs no meat. Meat would just get in the way of this profoundly Italian tasting casserole.

A Recipe For Vietnamese Crawfish Stew With Andouille Sausage

It’s crawfish season in New Orleans, Louisiana.

Recently, Canseco’s Market on Esplanade had a sale on locally grown as well as Vietnamese crawfish. The price difference was remarkable. Crawfish from fisheries within 20 minutes of my 9th Ward home cost nearly five times as much as the Vietnamese fishes.

Albert “Booth” Campbell of Maylie’s on Poydras St. Red Beans and Rice Recipe

Maylie’s on Poydras where Albert Booth Campbell cooked the best red beans and rice in New Orleans

Albert Booth Campbell is one of the mythical old-school Black cooks of New Orleans.

A Recipe For Alabama Apple Cake

When I was in culinary school in Alabama back in the 90s, I read the Birmingham News and the Birmingham Post-Herald every single day. On Wednesdays I kept a pair of scissors handy so I could cut recipes out of the food section.

Just like my mom and grandma did in the 70s.

Rest In Peace: Terlingua Chili Champion John Billy Murray

Texas chili man John Billy Murray, 1988.

“You take poor meat, salt and pepper it, boil the hell out of it and then you take spices and make it taste flavorful.” That’s chili legend John Billy Murray speaking on the art of making a powerful kettle of Texas chili.

Back in 1984, Murray traveled ten hours from his home in Humble to the Original Terlingua International Frank X. Tolbert-Wick Fowler Memorial Championship chili shootout deep in the heart of Big Bend country.

A Recipe For Hog Head Gumbo

Last week we were up in Kentucky hanging out in a slaughter house when we noticed a big hog’s head sitting on the meat-cutter’s work bench. He offered it up to us and we immediately began plotting what we would do with this animal’s lovely noggin.

Four hours over a Hickory fire found the head to be sufficiently cooked but we needed stock so we wedged the head down into our big Kuhn Rikon pressure cooker and put it on low bars for three hours til the meat was like butter and the jaw had completely separated from the head.

Pableaux Johnson Cornbread Recipe

Pableaux Johnson hard at work shooting a second line in Central City, New Orleans.

On Monday January 13th I was in the kitchen at Tamale House East in Austin prepping for my annual gumbo party when the phone rang. It was Pableaux Johnson. He was hammering down I-20 in the deep south with four gallons of gumbo in the trunk of his car.

A Recipe For Bacon Fat Mayonnaise

It’s ungodly how much bacon we eat at the Scrumptious house. We’ve been on a pork belly-curing tear for the last few months, and not coincidentally have been cooking and eating rashers of bacon on a daily basis.

We’re all going to die soon.

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